How does Jordan compare to your home country on LGBTQ+ rights, democracy and press freedom?
The moderate Middle East — and a democracy score below Turkey's
Jordan is the country people pick when they want the region without the risk. Petra, Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea, moving between Amman and Aqaba on good roads with English widely spoken. Visitors are treated well, street crime is low, and the hospitality is genuine. This page takes all of that as read.
What sits underneath it is a constitutional monarchy where the king appoints the government and the entire Senate, can dissolve the lower house, and holds the final word on legislation. The Economist Intelligence Unit rates Jordan an authoritarian regime, 115th of 167 — nearly a full point below Turkey, and below Lebanon and Algeria too. Most people would guess the opposite. That gap between the reputation and the index is why this page exists. Jordan stays safe and welcoming for visitors; the point is that "calm" and "free" are two different measurements, and Jordan scores very differently on each.
Equaldex scores Jordan 15/100, and the two halves of that score point in opposite directions. The Legal Index is 24 — higher than Egypt, Morocco, Tunisia or Indonesia — because same-sex conduct between adults has not been a crime in Jordan since 1951. The Public Opinion Index is 6. That is the lowest public-opinion figure of any country on Fair Away, by a distance; the next lowest is Indonesia at 11.
So the usual Fair Away pattern is reversed here. On most low-scoring countries the public runs ahead of the law and the state is the brake. In Jordan the law mostly leaves people alone and society does not. Human Rights Watch puts it plainly: Jordanian law does not explicitly criminalise same-sex relations, but vague "immorality" provisions can be used to target LGBT people, and there is no protection against discrimination on grounds of sexual orientation or gender identity.*
The state has moved against organising rather than against private life. Human Rights Watch documented in December 2023 that security forces systematically targeted LGBT rights activists with interrogations, threats and online smear campaigns, forcing several organisations to shut down and pushing some activists out of the country.* The 2023 cybercrime law gave that a legal instrument: vague offences including "promoting, instigating, aiding or inciting immorality" now carry at least three months in jail and fines of 5,000–20,000 Jordanian dinars.* My.Kali, the Arabic and English queer magazine founded in Amman in 2007, has been blocked inside Jordan since 2016.*
Same-sex conduct is legal in Jordan, and as a visitor you are unlikely to meet the law at all. Discretion is what matters here rather than legality: public displays of affection are read badly for anyone, gay or straight, and there is no visible scene to point you to — the organisations that would have run one have largely been closed or pushed abroad. The asymmetry is the thing to hold on to. If you post about a Jordanian person's sexuality, or tag them, the cybercrime law reaches them, not you.
The EIU puts Jordan at 3.28 in 2024 — 115th of 167, in the "authoritarian regime" band, with a political-culture component of 2.50 and functioning of government at 2.86. Parliament is elected; it is not where power sits. The king appoints the prime minister and cabinet, appoints the whole Senate, can dissolve the lower house, and retains final authority over legislation. Political parties were legalised again in 2022 and the 2024 election ran on a new law meant to strengthen them — a real change worth noting, but one that altered who fills the seats rather than what the seats can decide. In April 2025 the authorities banned the Muslim Brotherhood organisation outright, while its political party kept its seats.*
The 2023 cybercrime law is where this becomes measurable. Jordan's own National Centre for Human Rights recorded 3,170 prosecutions under it in 2024, the vast majority for online defamation.* In January 2025 the State Security Court sentenced Ayman Sandouka, secretary of a since-dissolved political party, to five years for "incitement to oppose the political regime" over a Facebook post addressed to the king.* In May 2025 the media regulator blocked twelve news websites — among them Middle East Eye and Raseef22 — over reporting on Jordanian aid deliveries to Gaza.*
RSF ranks Jordan 142nd of 180 in the 2026 Index (score 39.33, up from 147th and 35.25 a year earlier), with its legal-environment sub-score the weakest component at 154th.* Read those two things together: the ranking improved while the prosecutions and blockings continued. The rank is the less informative of the two.
Ordinary sightseeing carries on untouched by any of this, and Jordanians discuss politics openly in private. The line that matters is written, not spoken — what gets prosecuted here is publishing: posts, articles, videos. Assume anything you put online about the king, the security services or the government can be read by the state, and that a Jordanian who shares or comments on it carries a risk you don't. Avoid photographing security personnel and military sites.
This is the score on this page most likely to mislead, so it is worth opening up. The 6.1 is a 50/50 blend of lived conditions (Georgetown WPS Index 0.686, 88th of 177) and formal legal rights (World Bank WBL Legal Frameworks, 52.5). Inside that WBL half Jordan scores 100 on Pay and 100 on Childcare — and 0 on Marriage, 6.25 on Safety and 12.5 on Mobility. A composite that averages a perfect score and a zero produces a middling number describing neither.
What those zeroes stand for is concrete, and Human Rights Watch sets it out: a woman under 30 needs her male guardian's permission to marry for the first time; a woman can lose spousal maintenance for "disobeying" her husband or leaving the marital home without "legitimate" reason; women have been detained on the complaint of a male guardian, some for more than a decade; and a woman cannot travel abroad with her children without her guardian's approval.* Jordanian law does not recognise marriage between a Muslim woman and a non-Muslim man. And a Jordanian woman married to a foreigner cannot pass her nationality to her children or her spouse — leaving those children paying for schooling that is free to citizens.* The state defends that last one as protecting the Palestinian right of return, which tells you it is a political question rather than an administrative one.
Against that: Article 308, the provision that let a rapist escape prosecution by marrying his victim, was repealed in 2017. Women's labour-force participation and political representation have both been rising, quota seats exist in parliament and municipal councils, and the WBL legal score itself moved up between the 2024 and 2026 editions on amendments covering women's employment and parental leave. The direction of travel in law is forward; the distance still to go is what the Marriage and Mobility zeroes measure.
Jordan is straightforward for women travelling alone by regional standards, including on organised sections of the Jordan Trail. Dress expectations are moderate rather than strict outside conservative towns. Reproductive rights sit outside this score, as on every Fair Away page: abortion in Jordan is permitted to preserve the woman's physical or mental health, and is otherwise criminalised.
The World Justice Project puts Jordan at 0.55 in 2025 — 62nd of 143, third in the Middle East and North Africa after Qatar and Kuwait, and up 0.6% on the year with its rank unchanged. For the region that is a comparatively strong result, and it reflects something real: courts function, contracts are enforceable, and public order holds.
What holds the score down is a second system running alongside the first. Under the 1954 Crime Prevention Law, provincial governors — who answer to the Interior Ministry, not to a court — can order someone held in administrative detention for up to a year, bypassing the Criminal Procedure Law entirely. No charge, no trial, no independent review. Jordan's National Centre for Human Rights recorded 20,437 administrative detentions in 2024, a significant fall from the 37,395 recorded in 2022.* The fall is real and worth saying out loud. Twenty thousand people a year detained by administrative order, in a country of around eleven million, is still the clearest single reason a "safe and stable" reputation and a mid-table rule-of-law score can both be accurate at once.
There is movement. In April 2025 the cabinet approved penal-code amendments expanding non-custodial sentences — community service, rehabilitation, electronic monitoring — and both chambers took them forward, though the NCHR notes courts have so far made very limited use of the alternatives that already exist.*
Everyday legal risk for a visitor is low and the police are generally helpful. Two things are handled far more harshly than a European traveller expects: drugs in any quantity, and anything the authorities read as insulting the king, the state or religion. Jordan also uses exit bans in unresolved civil and financial disputes, so leave nothing outstanding with a landlord, employer or business partner.
The US Department of Labor places Jordan in the Moderate Advancement tier for 2024, the second of four, one of 63 countries in that band.* ILAB publishes a tier, not a score, so the 6.0 is our approximation of that tier rather than a figure you can look up — which is what the tilde on the bar means.
ILAB records children working in agriculture, in vehicle repair and other trades, in street work and in forced begging. The risk concentrates among the children least covered by the system: refugee and stateless children, and children of migrant workers. Jordan's own labour-rights organisation, Tamkeen, argued in June 2026 that the gap between the legislative framework and actual enforcement is what threatens child-labour protection here* — a useful corrective to reading "Moderate Advancement" as a description of conditions rather than of government effort.
The visible form is children selling tissues, water and trinkets at junctions and outside tourist sites in Amman, Petra and Jerash. Buying from them or handing over money keeps a child on the street rather than in school — Jordanian and international child-protection organisations are consistent on this. If you want that money to do something, it does more through the organisations below.
Who the numbers leave out
Every score above measures how a state treats its own citizens. In Jordan that leaves out a great many of the people you will actually meet, and one group whose displacement your ticket helps pay for.
Refugees. Jordan hosts 2.4 million registered Palestine refugees, around 40% of all those registered with UNRWA worldwide.* Separately it hosted over 500,000 people registered with UNHCR in 2025, more than 460,000 of them Syrian as of August, with numbers falling as Syrians have returned home since the political transition of December 2024.* Many Palestinians in Jordan hold citizenship; many, particularly those who arrived from Gaza after 1967, do not.
Migrant workers. Around 55,000 registered domestic workers were in Jordan in 2025, mainly from South-East Asia and East Africa, alongside Egyptians in agriculture and construction and South Asian workers in the garment factories of the industrial zones. Rights organisations repeatedly refer cases of wage theft, identity-document confiscation and physical, sexual and verbal abuse to the Labour Ministry.* Their legal status is tied to a sponsoring employer, and Tamkeen publishes the resulting case files itself.
People moved out of the way of tourism. The photograph at the top of this page is Petra. By late September 2025, Human Rights Watch found, Jordanian authorities were forcibly removing the Bedul Bedouin community from the Petra site using coercive tactics including cutting off water, halting wages and detaining residents — without their consent and outside international standards, while presenting the evictions as protection of the archaeological site.* In East Amman, the demolition of the informal al-Mahatta camp for a road-widening project displaced over 100 people without proper notice or fair compensation.*
We flag all of this rather than score it. None of our five indices measures how a country treats people who are not its citizens, or what is done to a community in the name of preserving a site visitors pay to enter, and no source does so on a basis comparable across every country on this site. Showing the gap is more honest than inventing a number for it.
How to travel Jordan in a way that supports your values
Jordan has a real civil society — under pressure, and still working in the open, which sets it apart from most of the low-scoring countries on this site. The organisations below work legally and openly inside the country and can be supported directly. Two of the most useful things to read are blocked from inside Jordan, so read them before you fly.
↑ Back to the scoresTravelling with LGBTQ+ rights in mind
My.Kali has been published out of Amman since 2007 and is one of the first queer magazines in the Arab region, in Arabic and English. It has been blocked inside Jordan since 2016, so open it before you travel or expect it not to load on local wifi. Reading and sharing it is the most direct support available for a scene with no public venue to point you to.
misterb&b lists stays with local hosts in Amman and elsewhere in Jordan, which keeps your money with a person rather than a chain. Be clear about what that label is and isn't: it is an opt-in listing, not an audit, and it does not change the legal or social environment described above. In Jordan the host's discretion matters more than the badge.
That absence is itself the finding. Human Rights Watch's December 2023 investigation documented how security forces pushed LGBT rights groups in Jordan to close, and Outright International continues to track the country from outside. We would rather say so than link an organisation that no longer safely exists.
Travelling with press freedom in mind
RSF's Jordan country profile carries the current ranking and live detention figures, and names the outlets it treats as independent. Chief among them is 7iber, an Amman-based investigative and explanatory outlet publishing mainly in Arabic — also on the national block list, so read it before you arrive rather than from your hotel.
Jordan's ranking improved in 2026 while prosecutions continued and twelve news sites were blocked. Human Rights Watch has run a country office in Jordan since 2014, and its Jordan page tracks the individual cases — which is the level at which any of this is actually visible.
Travelling with women's rights in mind
The Jordanian Women's Union is a national feminist organisation running a helpline and shelter services for women facing violence, including in governorates outside Amman where almost nothing else exists. It works legally and openly inside the country, which is exactly what makes it worth supporting from outside it.
Travelling with labour rights in mind
Tamkeen for Legal Aid and Human Rights has given legal aid to migrant workers, refugees and trafficking victims from Amman since 2007, and publishes the case files, position papers and statistics behind three of the dimensions on this page. If you support one Jordanian organisation after reading this, this is the one covering the widest part of what the scores miss.
The person cleaning the hotel room, picking the tomatoes and stitching the clothes in the industrial zones is, more often than not, a migrant worker whose visa is tied to their employer. Visible respect costs nothing. Asking whether a hotel or tour operator can tell you how its staff are employed costs little more.
Put your money into local hands
Wadi Rum sits in a protected area where tourism is run largely by local Bedouin families, but a large share of bookings still arrives through international intermediaries that keep most of the margin. Booking a camp or a guide directly, and paying for a guide at Petra rather than walking past them, moves a materially larger share of the same money to the people in front of you.
Petra is a lived-in place as well as a ruin. The Bedul community has its home there, and is being moved out of it. Before you go, read Human Rights Watch's account of the current displacement. Inside the site, buy the tea, the guiding and the crafts from Bedul families rather than from the concessions at the gate — it is the one point in the visit where the choice is genuinely yours.
Family-run restaurants, neighbourhood bakeries and cooperative-made crafts keep more in the local economy than hotel restaurants and imported souvenirs. As everywhere on Fair Away, the point is who you pay, not only what you buy.
Fair Away doesn't take a cut from any organisation or business listed here. These are starting points we can stand behind, not paid placements — and the list grows as travellers suggest more.
Fair Away is independent and ad-free. A one-person project built to help you travel with open eyes. If it helped you think, a double espresso keeps my thinking going.
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What the five scores come from
Background — not part of any score
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